Trip Reports from SCMA Members

Castle Rock Massif
by SCMA Member Alois Smrz

"Castle Rocks Massif is nestled in Sequoia National Park and offers superb climbing in a most spectacular setting. Difficult access adds to the feeling of remote climbing and protects the area from human intrusion. Castle Rocks includes not only the impressive 1,000 foot high Castle Rock Spire but also the upper towers which have faces nearly as tall. But for the rock climber, perhaps the most inspiring feature of the area is the awesome and beautiful face of the "FIN" which stretches up to about a 1,000 feet to its narrow summit ridge. It’s hard to find better wilderness climbing anywhere and a successful trip to the area will linger in a climbers minds for a lifetime". Herb Laeger’s Home Guide to Castle Rocks

In 1984, Bill Krause told me about a large, unclimbed wall in Southern Sequoia. Bill was sure that the West Face of the FIN was at least a grade IV climb and urged me to explore the area.

In February of 1985, Miguel Carmona and I skied around Watchtower and Moro Rock and photographed the Patagonia like towers of the Castle Rock Massif.

In May of 1985, unknown to us, Herb Laeger, Ron Carson and Patrick Paul climbed "Silver Lining" IV, 5.10A, R/X on the West Face of the Fin.

In June of 1986, Bob Lindgren, Miguel, and I explored the area from Mineral King. We found the 1,000 foot gully between the Fin and Castle Rock Spire too technical for quick descent and had to abandon all hopes. We climbed two short new routes (2 pitch, 5.8) on the upper Castle Rocks. Miguel found Herb Laeger’s summit register on the Fin and a note about first ascent of Silver Lining.

In May of 1987, James Weger, Miguel, and I set out from Buckeye Flat on Generals Highway in attempt to reach the Rocks from the West. We followed the Climbers Guide to the High Sierra (by Roper). Six hours of poison oak, steep, grassy hills, exploring and thunderstorms brought us to the Fin. Next day, another strong thunderstorm forced us to rappel from the 6th pitch of Silver Lining.

May 11-16, 1988, Miguel and I set out again from Buckeye Flat armed with five days off. Thanks to stable weather and our knowledge of the area, we were able to complete the 3rd ascent of Silver Lining and the 15th ascent (in 38 years!) of Castle Rock Spire.

THE FIN
SILVER LINING, IV, 5.10A R/X
Isolated and beautiful, this route is a must for the High Sierra rock climber. In our opinion, this is one of the best lines on the West side of Sierra Nevada. The climbing is harder and better than that found on the Charlotte Dome. Face climbing predominates. The granite is excellent and never easier than 5.9. Several moderate and two serious runouts are the norm. A rappel route requiring 2x 165’ ropes has been established. Average rack with SLCDs is all that’s needed. 10-12 slings and a knife are required for the rappels.

CASTLE ROCK SPIRE
NE FACE, REGULAR ROUTE, III, 5.8 A2 (or 5.11+).
This incredible blade of rock, clearly visible from Generals Highway is the highest spire in California outside of Yosemite. In 38 years since its first ascent by Alan Steck's party in 1950, it has only been climbed 15 times. The first ascent route is predominantly a crack climb with several aid sections. Although only 8 pitches long, it requires a long approach in a snow gully and a full day of climbing. The climbing is vertical, exposure is terrific and the ratings are conservative. The Steck route is the only route on the spire that has been repeated. The summit register reads like a "Who is who" of American climbing. RCS/SCMA Member Chuck Wilts did the 5th(?) ascent and Mike Sherrick also did early ascent. In fact, Miguel and I are the only "no name", weekend climbers to have ever reached the summit. Pitons are not needed on this climb. A set of SLCDs, and two sets of wires are required. A hammer to test some of the very old pitons would be helpful. Two 165’ ropes and about 12 slings are needed for the rappels. To avoid difficult scrambling to the top of the approach gully, Miguel and I climbed a new variation on the first two pitches. We climbed directly to the large flake (see Roper’s guide). This variation avoids the Class 4 horizontal pitches and makes the start of the climb more direct; 2 pitches, 5.8 and 5.9+. Topos of both climbs as well as pages of general information are available from me.

The approach to Castle Rocks is difficult. Poison Oak is prevalent during the 4,000-foot elevation gain and a minimum of 3 days is needed to attempt any climbs. Water is only available till about mid August. But for backcountry climbers seeking adventure, solitude, and challenge, this area is one of the best, largely undiscovered gems of the Western High Sierra. If you can, stay an extra day and enjoy both FIN and CASTLE ROCK SPIRE. The place is definitely worth it!

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