Southeastern Arizona offers a wealth of climbing often overlooked. Cochise Stronghold is one example. The Stronghold in the 1880's was the home of Apache warriors led by Cochise and Geronimo. The rugged 5 square mile area provided a hideout safe from the cavalry for many years. Today, the Stronghold offers extraordinary birding opportunities as well as excellent rock climbing in a backcountry wilderness setting.

On Saturday, Judy & I planned to hike into the main Stronghold. Parking is regulated and for a fee based on the new Forest Service Recreational Fee Demonstration Program. A rather unpleasant ranger enforces the regulations. The hike in on a steep semi-improved use trail takes one to two hours, depending on the route you are headed for. We chose What's My Line (5.6/A0 or 5.10a, 3 pitches). The route is one of the most popular in the park. A single lower-out (A0) or 5.10a downclimbing to a sea of chickenheads starts the route. The first two pitches are chickenheads, easy climbing but with limited protection. The final pitch offers several possible finishes, each excellent. Spencer and Elana, rising a little later, did a shorter approach and attempted Beeline (5.9, 2 pitches). After finding out that Stronghold 5.9 cracks are rather stout, Spencer and Elana opted to descend after the first pitch.

Upon return to my car, I found that an angry local had loosened the valve stem on my rear tire and flattened it. This and the local "friendly" ranger, who also hassled Spencer and Elana, clinched it, we decided to relocate to the west Stronghold. A Colorado guide we met reinforced our decision with glowing reports of the west side.

On Sunday both groups headed up to the Stronghold from the west. The hike up was less steep than the east side, but required knowledge of where to make a critical turn into the gully, taking about 90 minutes. Judy & I planned to do Forest Lawn (5.9, 3 pitches), while Spence and Elana were to do What's My Line. Spencer and Elana had a great day on the classic line. Forest Lawn proved to be my undoing. The first pitch, a classic 5.9 lieback, proved to be a series of five hangs, one or more for each piece placed through the lower section of the route. After finally attaining the first belay, we decided to top-rope the pitch several more times and head back to camp. The line was classic, but we weren't quite up to the challenge.

Monday, both parties agreed to climb Days of Future Past (5.8/A0 or 5.10b, 4 pitches). We hiked up to the base of the route. I racked up with a rack that would have done a big-wall party proud for the intimidating 1^st chimney pitch. Neither start (the A0 lower-out or the 10b slab) felt comfortable with the large rack, so Spencer and Elana volunteered to head up first. Spencer climbed up the precarious flaring crack to the lower-out bolt and was off, using the 5.8/ A0 start to get into the crack systems. He was able to place a #6 friend during the often-unprotected chimney pitch higher up on the first pitch. I bouldered up the 5.10b start (a direct, single bolt variation to attain the main crack system), without a rack, to the first bolt while Spencer led. The route was high quality for all four pitches, consisting of chimneying, crack climbing (fists and wide hands) and excellent face climbing. We all four topped out late in the day, ready for the descent described as an adventure in itself. After setting up the 1st rap down (2 x 60m), I headed down to check it out. On the way down, I found a relatively new 60m 8.5mm trail line to my delight. The rap ends in a narrow gully. Moderately difficult scrambling down a narrow sloped chimney leads into a cave at the bottom. I explored while the others rapped. Through the cave, several 4^th class moves lead to a narrow opening heading out to a ledge, where the 2^nd rap station is located. We hit the ground at about dark. We hiked back to out packs under headlamps and headed back to camp after a snack break, all agreeing the day was superb.

Tuesday was a rest day for Judy and me, while Spencer and Elana tackled Moby Dick (5.7, 6 pitches). The route was excellent although a little over-rated. Many of the pitches can be run together, so the climb is relatively casual. The approach too, being only 30 minutes up a good use trail, is quite moderate.

Wednesday, Spencer and Elana headed out to a local sport area, Isle of You, for a day of rest and moderate climbing before heading north to the red sandstone of Sedona, where they climbed both the Mace (5.9+) and Streaker Spire (5.7), both area classics. Judy and I headed up for Moby Dick. We enjoyed the climb and agreed with Spencer's assessment.

Thursday we decided to challenge ourselves by climbing Warpaint (5.10c, 5 pitches). The route was a highlight of our trip. Of the 5 pitches, four pitches were solid 5.10 climbing. We opted for the steep overhanging finish to the route heading to the top instead of the more casual slab climbing to the anchor. The climb was mixed bolts and natural gear as appropriate for the rock. The more difficult sections were always well protected.

Friday we too headed for the Isle of You. We finished our stay with moderate sport routes. The climbing was good and the approach less than 10 minutes.

As we headed off to our next destination, we reminisced what a great week it had been visiting the Stronghold. For long backcountry style routes on granitic rock I would highly recommend the Stronghold.