I had been afraid that locking the keys in Ron
Barry’s 4-Runner at a Mobil station outside of Bakersfield was a bad
omen for our trip to the Courtwright Reservoir. Ron, Laurie Carr, and I
were delayed an hour while we waited for the AAA guy. Yet once we came
around a corner into the park, and saw the wide expanse of the Power Dome
at dusk, all was forgiven. We stared across the canyon at the granite
mass, all of us uttering a collective, "Oooooh."
Saturday morning Laurie joined Greg Vernon as
chief battery pack sherpa on the Power Dome, and Ron and I cluelessly
drove the 500 yards to Spring Dome. He put me on "Double-Double"
(5.6 trad) to test my leading skills. I led both pitches, fairly slow but
without much problem until I reached the top and was struck by the
substantial lack of anchor potential. I started panicking, wrestling
tri-cams and nuts into dirty, shallow cracks, until I finally looked up
and realized there was a rather large bomb-proof tree. Ron joined me at
the summit and eyeballed my anchor of red, green and purple slings.
"One sling around the tree probably would have done it," he
said.
All morning on Spring Dome we saw only four other
climbers. The view of the reservoir with perfectly rounded white domes
sprouting up along its banks rendered the entire area a climber’s
playground. After lunch we wandered over to Trapper Dome. On the way we
passed my TLW mate Steve Kohut with Ted Lewis preparing for his RM eval
the next day. A little further around, we ran into Shauna Hermes
photographing Michael Gordon back-stepping for the camera on
"Tao."
I led the first two pitches of "Dingo"
along a 5.7 crack that took pro easily, and then in no time we were up the
final 5.8 pitch led by Ron, watching the sun begin to sink behind the
Trapper Dome.
Back at the campsite the girls ruled, with Patty
Rambert, Judy Molland, Laurie and myself discussing the various merits of
movie star sleeper masks and eye pillows when camping. We succeeded in
scaring Steve Tuszynski, John Thau, Steve Cole and Ron away from our
picnic table, muttering comments like, "Sure is different having so
many women in the campground."
Laurie had climbed well on Saturday, leading the
first pitch (5.8 bolted) of "A Little Nukey," on the Power Dome,
and following Greg easily the remainder of the way. On Sunday, she joined
Don and John on Pentstemon Dome, where Ron and I headed as well. I led and
weeded an overgrown crack up to "Rope-A-Dope" (5.8+ bolted,)
where we encountered Joe King and his gang who let us have a turn on the
route. Ron led, and we rapped back down to discover a long line of
climbers from San Francisco jostling each other on the ledge and barking
out to those behind them, "There’s no more room up here!" and,
"We were here first, you’ll have to go back down!"
We SCMAers decided to bail at that point, and
prepared to rappel down the left-hand side. We could see Greg Vernon and
Mary Lohrman, John and Carrie Thau on "No Zukes," and Don, John
and Laurie on "Song of the Earth," beyond them. Many "Heys!"
and "Woo-hoos," were called out. One of the San Francisco women
said to Ron, "Who are you people?" He explained about the
SCMA and she said, "Seems like you guys are everywhere. Is there any
way to get a hold of your calendar so we can avoid you next year?"
After the mob scene on Pentstemon we decided to
hit the reservoir and then Trapper again after a swim. But it was so
peaceful, cool, and quiet down at the slabs along the beach by the
campsite, we never made it back up to climb. We were joined by Dan Gerlach
who regaled us with stories of his and Dave Pylman’s 5.11 conquests of
the day which shrank my little "first" of leading a 5.7 crack
the day before back down to human proportions.
Back at camp, everyone was fired up about the day’s
climbs and Ron and I started to wonder if maybe we could pull off the
Power Dome the next day. He could lead 5.9- no problem, but could I handle
the 5.8 trad and bolted pitches on "A Little Nukey?" I lost
track of Ron, (most likely "visiting" with Steve Cole,) so I
went to consult Greg Vernon and Don and John for advice. Mary encouraged
me, saying she thought I could do it. I asked Greg which pitches I should
lead, which approach we should take, and where to park. He answered my
questions slowly, as though he were speaking to a retarded person. I got
back to our picnic table, eager to share my info with Ron.
"Yeah," he said. "I know. I just asked Greg the same
questions five minutes ago."
I woke up at 4am, listening to climbers in their
tents snoring and farting around me and attempting to visualize the one
bolted pitch and two trad cracks I would lead in a few hours. At 8am, we
parked the truck at the top of the Power Dome, and started our hike in
behind the dome along the Pentstemon Creek as Greg had suggested. We
passed hollowed out pools and waterfalls – a truly peaceful, scenic
approach. Eventually the largest waterfall led us down to the dike
traverse along the base of the Power Dome. With us crossing the narrow
band of rock heading north, and the river’s waters rushing fifty feet
below us in an opposite, southernly direction, I started to get vertigo
and quickly donned my helmet and shoes.
Once at the base of "A Little Nukey," I
looked up the 900 feet, scanning frantically for bolts, and unable to spot
a single one, immediately started to schiz out. I tried to collect myself,
organize my gear, and sing the Winnie the Pooh prayer song, "Thank
you God for a beautiful day," which usually calms me right down in
tight climbing spots, but this time it wasn’t working.
Ron and I took a closer look at the climbers ahead
of us on the route – the only two other people on the face of the dome
– and realized we would once again be following Joe King and his friend
Carrie. Knowing Joe’s calm and expert demeanor would be present
reassured me somehow, and as Ron began pointing out the first few bolts of
my route, it all started to come into focus. I tied in, took a deep breath
and started up. I sang the Pooh song to myself as I climbed, counting bolt
after bolt until all eight had been attained. I quickly created an anchor
from my cordelette and blew out a huge breath of relief. Already the view
from the dome was incredible – the imposing face across the canyon and
the road beyond, the massive dam to the north, the river rushing a hundred
plus feet below.
Ron easily led the second, fourth and fifth
pitches, and I tackled the third and sixth. Traversing right to the start
of the third pitch, I looked up at the crack I was to lead and it felt
familiar. It looked to me like many of the cracks we had practiced on in
the TLW (although further from the ground,) and I knew I could do it.
Five hours from our start, I was setting an anchor
on the top of the Power Dome. My first bolted 5.8 lead and my first 5.8
trad crack. Woo-hoo! Walking off we ran into Shauna and Michael and their
friend Doug ending their day on Pentstemon. We thanked Doug and Michael
for the beta they had provided the night before, and headed once more for
the rocky beaches of the reservoir.
In camp, Laurie and Carrie Thau reported their
adventures of top-roping 10+ rated routes on the Dome of the Immaculate
Conception. High-fives for the NTC class of 2000.
The fire burned high and bright in the campsite on
Monday night, as Greg Vernon serenaded us with old fraternity songs about
tequila-drinking mice. As I looked up at the Trapper Dome silhouetted
above us in the moonlight, I thought about how perfect the weekend had
been, thanks to kind and patient RMs like Ron and Michael, trip leaders
like Don, and frat ditty singing guidebook authors whose guidance had
ensured a stress-free ascent of the Power Dome.