Gear Review; Things Learned While at Ice Climbing Camp
by SCMA Members Michael Gordon & Dave German

The purpose of this review is to save you a few dollars and perhaps guide you to the "right" ice gear purchases first time out if you are in the market for new or replacement gear. Due to the plethora of annual gear reviews in the climbing magazines, this review does not deal with ice tools, crampons, or ropes. Just the accouterments related to the game of ice climbing.

There’s a lot out there: titanium, aluminum, and chromolly steel. In general, if you are doing single pitch "roadside" water ice climbing, save your money for Black Diamond Express screws. These screws feature a knurled knob (like a coffee grinder) which allows you to crank these babies in fast. It makes a big difference when you’re hanging from a single tool on vertical ice. On vertical water ice, setting screws that have a flush or flat hanger (which you can’t even palm) is a bitch. Trust us. The Expresses retail for $52.50, and $39.50 for the BD screw without the knob. Alternatively, Smiley’s (www.smileysclimbing.com) sells virtually the same screw (consumer direct) for $32.50 (no tax for CA residents). The "Smileys Cr-Mo" screw also has a knurled knob, but it is not permanently mounted to the hanger like a Black Diamond. A little super glue will ensure that the knob doesn’t remove itself. Smiley’s claims innovation, but their screws are just knock-off’s of BD’s, but for twenty bucks less and no tax, it’s a deal. However, the Smiley’s weigh just a teensy-bit more. Both the BD and Smiley’s screws always set like in butter, and are a pleasure for a second to clean. They are well-built and easy to use. Old Chouinard screws work well, but they usually take an ice tool to get them cranked in flush to the ice surface. These screws are better relegated to less steep alpine ice. Pound-in screws are favored by some, but these are definitely more difficult for a second to clean, but leader security takes priority. For backcountry alpine ice where weight is a concern, buying titanium screws makes good sense. Ushba (www.ushba.com) makes a variety of titanium ice screws which weigh in at approximately half that of Black Diamond’s.

And taken from rec.climbing.useful at http://www.lexicomm.com/climbing/index.html :

"I purchased two 17cm new Grivel 360 Degree screws for my Telluride trip. I saved them for only the pumpiest of placements and they worked almost miraculously, far eclipsing the BD Express (which I also used) screws for ease of placement. The long handle made cranking them in absolutely effortless and lightning fast. Cleaning ease was similarly enhanced because you could unscrew all the way out without so much fear of dropping because of the big, easily grasped handle. The handle does not get in the way. By far the easiest screw I've ever placed. Only disadvantage is the unique hanger design makes them a little bulky to rack, and you can't place as many on a clip/biner. A very, very small price to pay indeed for the ease of placement."

The Grivel screw’s handle pivots up and over bumps in the ice so you won't have to chop them clear – unlike the Black Diamond screw which requires nearly four inches of circular clearance for the hanger to be turned. The pivoting, retractable handle has better placement leverage and requires less site preparation for quicker placement and less stress to the ice. The Grivel 360 Degree screw retails for $58 – the most expensive screw you can buy. The SCMA Gear Testing Team has not independently evaluated these screws, but they look promising.

A word on size: it’s not how big that matters, it’s how you use it. In other words, due to global warming, California water ice ain’t what it used to be. Having a couple of 22cm screws on your rack will be ideal for belays, but rarely can you find fat enough ice to place them on lead. Keep a good selection of medium screws (17cm) and definitely some stubbies (10cm) on your rack.

Ice Screw Racking Devices

There are two ways to rack screws: on your gear loops with carabiners, or racking with a specialized racking device. One of these devices is the Trango Ice Clip. Save your $22 (two pack). This thing works awesome in theory, but not so great in practice. Since it must be screw-mounted to your harness, it doesn’t exactly fit all harnesses. This widget stays rigidly fixed on your harness so your screws are always in the same orientation, and a simple up and out motion gets a screw off. You don't have to do any fancy twists or hanger-flips to get a screw off. Unfortunately, this same ease of removal applies to accidental removal as well. If your approach or descent involves deep snow and/or glissades, the screw bottoms can catch protrusions and remove themselves. I was (MG) at the top of a pitch which involved an ice "chimney" exit. As I was pulling the bulge on the exit (and my hips contacted the chimney sides), I looked down to watch one of my screws falling, falling, falling. Depending upon your harness, forward mounting may be necessary (as it is with mine - MG) which somewhat inhibits full high-step activities.

Another racking device is the Blue Water Rack Master (sold by Mountain Gear www.mgear.com). The Rack Master is a dual "no-notch" carabiner racking system with support bars to keep the gates pointed out and accessible. This device has been used with good reports.

For me (MG), I’m going back to racking on individual biners as it means that whatever screw I want RIGHT NOW is never buried beneath another. Another money-saving gear trial brought to you by your testers.

Also known as V-threads, this gearless anchor setup should be learned by all. The Abalakov thread was invented by a krazy Russian who drank vodka from a Camelbak while on lead. Just kidding. Though we don’t know it’s history, it’s important to know how to create one. It’s a way to retreat from or rappel a route without leaving anything behind but a piece of webbing or cord. Though time consuming, it can be used as an anchor for the belayer which will save screws for the leader. You will need to make a small homemade wire hooker about 22cm long to reach into the hole to grab your webbing or cord. Though detailed in current ice climbing instructional manuals, you basically make two screw holes at opposing 90degree angles to the ice surface. These holes should meet in a V fashion, 22cm or so deep in the ice. You then thread the cord or webbing into one hole, reach into the other with your hooker, and pull the cord or webbing through the hole. Tie off the material and voila – you have an anchor. If using as a belay anchor, this should be backed up. For redundancy, two parallel V-threads can also be made and tied off with longer cord or a cordelette.

A snow shovel is a great tool to bring to the base of ice climbs to build or improve a belay platform, and (insert your deity here) forbid – be used to help extract an avalanche buried victim. Snow shovels also provide a real nice ride on snowfields. Sit on the blade, point the handle downhill, and steer!

Other Accouterments

A cut down ensolite pad for sitting out of the snow is another great device for comfort, as is a thermos of any hot beverage. Be sure and keep ale in the car for après-climb rehydration.