It was to be the big trip, finally after several years of not being able to make any of the Picacho del Diablo trips, Judy and I were planning to go. Unfortunately, at the last minute, the trip was cancelled. Never fear, we decided to go as a private trip. We consulted with Lou Wilson via email, as well as several local San Diego sources on how to best approach the peak from the east side. We wound up with a large-scale topo map of Baja and Lou’s "seat of the pants" directions. Thursday, April 20 we set off from San Diego at about 9:00 am, planning on hiking up the canyon in the late afternoon after missing the worst of the day’s heat. The drive was supposed to be around 6 hours or so.

We stopped in Mexicali for a quick taco lunch and purchased fruit and cheese, which was forgotten at home. Driving through northern Baja revealed stark desert landscape. About 100 miles south of the border, we turned westward towards the mountains. The directions said to go 20 miles or so. A sign indicated the road to San Martir National Park. We turned south, closely observing the mountains now on our right. We also looked at the recently purchased topo, hoping to confirm our destination. After traveling south for almost 20 miles, we decided we must have missed a turnoff, and thus proceeded westward, towards the mountains on the next available road. We appeared to be headed directly for the southern canyon (Cañada de Providencia). This canyon too may be used as an approach to climb Picacho del Diablo (and was used by Norman Clyde), but it was not our objective on this trip. We saw ORV’s off in the distance across the dry lakebed. Soon we saw a sign for Rancho Providencia, not the Rancho Santa Clara we sought. We stopped by a shepherd’s house to ask for directions. The local patiently explained to us, that yes, the canyon above was Cañada de Providencia, but that we could just head about 5-6 km north and find the correct road to Cañada del Diablo, and the route to Picacho del Diablo. We were offered the choice of a large main road, or a smaller side road and opted for the more scenic sideroad trip, since both would lead us to our destination. We arrived at the trailhead amidst much discussion of which canyon was which, Cañada del Diablo versus the smaller Cañada del Diablito. We carefully parked in the shade and packed up, ready to go. It was now 4:00 p.m. The parking lot was strangely empty, since two groups were ahead of us.

The hike in started out innocuously enough. A dry riverbed heading into the mountains with a faint trail made by cattle and a rubber hose leading to a cattle pond. We hiked up into a land transformed. As we made our way up the canyon, we were amazed at the changes visible to the land made by the presence of water. Spring was evident around us. We noted flowers in abundance. The creek hosted tadpoles and numerous water creatures swimming madly around beneath the cascades. A rubber boa lay in the creek, cooling himself from the late afternoon heat. The canyon walls were sheer and closed in, enveloping us and protecting us from the desert heat. We began to really notice the plants around us. Here, red columbines, there a beautiful white sacred datura. Look, lilacs blooming, scenting the breeze. Hedgehog cacti were also blooming with waxy red blossoms on the hillside. Judy noted light pink orchids as well. We continued to hike up the rugged canyon terrain. At one point we saw a beautiful scarlet tanager. After climbing one particularly difficult slab we noted a faded climbing rope cut to make a rap anchor. This confirmed that we were not the first. The terrain, however, continued to be very difficult and we questioned if we were indeed in the right canyon. Near sundown we encountered a headwall, with a possible route up a crack to the side. It looked difficult and the hour was late. I volunteered to quickly scout ahead to see what we should plan for the next day. I quickly climbed the side of the canyon to the top, hoping to see our route revealed. I found that the canyon continued, but only after even more difficult climbing. After scrambling back down in the dark and encountering several "friendly" cholla, I rejoined Judy, where she kindly plucked out the spines from my arms and legs. We decided to camp on a beautiful sandy spit only a few feet from the creek. We concluded that we were in the wrong canyon and that the true route must be further north – damn! The creek gurgled, singing us to sleep under the brilliant desert stars. A bright full moon greeted us much later in the night as we slept.

We woke up and had our oatmeal feast. We hiked down the canyon planning to seek out the correct canyon. By 10:30 we were back at the car, having taken a few minutes to boulder a few exceptionally good problems. We drove back through the poorly marked roads, heading north. Soon we spotted a parking lot full of other cars at the base of the next canyon to the north. This then, must be the Montanismo and Mexicali climbing groups. We set off at 11:00 am, sure we had finally located the correct canyon, still hoping to make it in to Campo Noche this trip. The desert trail started by winding among magnificent Cardon cactus more typical of southern Baja. Mesquites had the light yellow tinges of spring as well. The palo verde seemed the same as always, another hardy desert plant. A new (to me) variety of hedgehog barrels sported beautiful fuchsia blossoms. Fishhook barrels were also in abundance. After only about one-half mile of desert hiking, we entered the riverbed. The canyon was close to twice the size of the one we had hiked the previous two days. This then, must be the right canyon. Cairns marked the way dutifully up the canyon. Soon the river was flowing and we entered the canyon proper. Cascades, hewn out of granite bedrock graced the lower canyon. We felt that we had already seen the best in the previous days’ hikes and we prepared for a let down, but this was not to be. After another half mile of hiking, we were faced with an impassible waterfall, with a steel cable hanging well out of reach, but obviously there to help surmount the falls. As I prepared myself to swim out and leap for the cable, Judy cried "Aha!" She had located a steel hook on an old agave stem. A piece old closeline hung off a rusted ¼ inch stud to grip while swinging over to grab the cable with the hook. I tied a hand loop in the cord and swung over, barely able to reach the cable even with the 6+ foot cheater stick and hook. I reeled it in. The end of the rope had a tattered climbing rope fragment attached in a seat loop configuration for the tension traverse across. Judy, sans pack, was selected to go first. The trip proved exciting, but uneventful. The rope and cable held. Judy discovered a ladder up top, but not wanting to deprive me of the experience, she simply swung the cable back to me. I crossed too. We continued to hike up, and soon encountered an etrier made of 5 mm cord hung on a swaged cable. The canyon was proving to be of a different character, but equally magnificent to Cañada del Diablito. We continued to see more and varied spring flowers: foxglove, locoweed, and Indian paintbrush all waved in the breeze. As we climbed up the canyon, we realized that we were moving through several different zones of vegetation. By 6:30 we decided we had gone far enough for the day. We hoped we had made half the journey, but with our less than optimal topo it was unclear. We hadn’t encountered the campsite Lou described as Campo Media (halfway +). We did encounter one party of campers just below a particularly difficult scrambling section. Much of the canyon was lined with huge unclimbed granite cliffs, begging for a rope. We spent another beautiful night under the stars.

On Saturday, we decided to carry only daypacks, but to attempt to climb up to Campo Noche as an exploratory venture, since by now the peak was out of the question. As we climbed, we noted new additions to our flower crop. White prickly poppies were now observed and a brilliant yellow poppy-like flower we couldn’t identify. Cattails were abundant in the creek too, and we discussed harvesting some of the roots for roasting. We spied an agave just ready to bloom; perhaps the world’s largest asparagus spear. Several other agave greeted us with open blossoms. As we climbed higher, huge stands of lush green poison oak graced the shaded hillsides. Cedars and pines started to creep into the landscape too. Again, the flora was changing; still beautiful, but different. We also saw several green-tailed towhees. At 11:00 we encountered a party of returning Montanismos. Irma, by now recognizing the duo from the US, greeted us warmly. We chatted with the group. Camp Noche was still 5 hours ahead, perhaps too far to reach and still return to camp. By 2:00 we had encountered two more groups of climbers returning, both from Mexicali. Each party seemed to be 5 hours out of Camp Noche, even though there were almost 3 hours difference in when we met them. The canyon was now winding though beautiful metamorphic rock, with rippled formations of white striated through the darker bands. Difficult, more technical sections were mixed with boulder hoping alluvium. Shortly after we me the last party, we decided to head back to camp. The hike back was quicker, but still long. We arrived at camp, just as darkness was arriving. I quickly prepared dinner, to quell our ravenous appetites. The night under the stars with the stream in the background was again restful and relaxing, especially after over 10 hours of difficult hiking.

The next morning, we got up relatively early and decided to make a quick hike out, planning on a short trip to San Felipe to visit the beach on our way home. As we hiked down the canyon, we continued to marvel on the relatively undiscovered beauty of the canyon only a few miles south of the border. At the cable crossing, we met others awaiting the return of the remaining climbers from above. We continued to hike down, taking time out to swim in the river and wash off a bit of the accumulated dust before heading into town. At the parking lot we agreed to give some of the climbers a ride back to Rancho Santa Clara, where their vehicles were parked. After dropping them off, we headed south to visit the beach and enjoy shrimp cocktails before the long drive home. Finally, we were no longer lost.

Even with no climbing involved, the trip into Cañada del Diablo is very worthwhile, just to enjoy the marvels of nature.