Training of the Rads vs. Trads
by SCMA Member Gerry Cox

(From an open letter to the climbing community .... Ed.)

Pick any Title:
TRAINING OF THE RADS VS. THE TRADS...BETTER SORRY THAN SAFE?

REFLECTIONS ON THE STYLES AND RELATIVE SAFETY OF ROCK-CLIMBING

SPLAT! GOES THE GYM RAT ...or. DIE! YUPPIE SCUM?

ARE SOME GYM CLIMBERS ACCIDENTS WAITING TO HAPPEN?

"Well , what will my next sport be? Hmmm...backgammon, tennis, swimming, skiing, hiking, mountain biking, in-line skating, aerobics, softball...I know! I'll go rock-climbing. It can't be too tough, you see it on commercials all the time, and they have all that equipment so you can't get hurt when you fall. Yeah! That's it! It's way cool, and the babes (dudes) will dig it." With this ambition and self-guided misinformation, many new people are attracted to rock-climbing. I'm referring not to the slab scrambles that every mother warns their kids not to do, but rather the technical fifth-class, fall-and-you-just-might-die kind of climbing. It is exciting, and can be pursued at any level of difficulty (yes, even easy climbs), but it is an activity that needs to be trained for in technical and mental aspects as well as the physical demands. With the use of ropes, belay techniques, protection gear and knowledge of self-evacuation methods, the apparently inherent and objective hazards can be reduced (never to be eliminated altogether). Before you commit yourself to such an activity, someone should tell you that rock climbing can be a blood sport, right up there with the glamour and danger of bull-fighting and race-car driving. If you mess up, maybe just once in a small way, you might never be heard from again. It's a worst-case scenario, but, hey! it happens. 

Technical rock climbing has a long and colorful history and tradition. Born as an aspect of mountaineering using ropes and gear that would now be of questionable quality, adages such as "the leader must not fall." were prevalent, and a bold style of leading (sometimes with frightfully long and scary runouts [distances between available protection]) were employed. Perceived by the public to be dangerous and death defying, the participants of this activity never quite let on that the dangers could be reduced to manageable levels because it might serve to spoil their reputation. 

As the quality of equipment was improved, technical rock climbing evolved as a sport separate from mountaineering. With this evolution were those who would practice the sport exclusively for the development of more difficult ascents, and not to reach the summit of any peak. Falling was a less dangerous proposition, utilized by many, and climbing moves of gymnastic difficulty and sequence were addressed until it was "wired", and then utilized to put together a flawless-looking redpoint (led without falls) ascent. 

Climbing continues to evolve, and where proponents once trained on small rocks to develop techniques to use on big rocks, there are now climbing gyms where people can practice on plastic (resin holds), techniques to be utilized on rocks. The standards of difficulty have risen, and to climb at the highest standards now requires near-constant training. This is referred to as "sport climbing", and despite having to memorize sequences of moves, learn new rope-handling techniques, and wear unbearably tight-fitting climbing shoes, climbing in gyms is to many a physical "no-brainer " activity. Gyms that were started in areas where weather didn't permit year-round climbing are now found almost everywhere, including areas that do have year-round climbing. In gyms you can practice the most difficult moves with the luxury of a top-rope running through a protection point above you. This considerably cuts down the length of a fall and can be used as an anti-gravity technique to allow you to try moves without having to haul your entire weight through the sequence. 

On lead routes, the protection is provided by expansion bolts equipped with hangers through which carabiners are clipped, and you merely clip the rope as you pass by. Most of the protection points are so close together that you never risk a dangerous fall. For many participants, it is a great variation on a workout routine, requiring a little extra equipment and technique. Some of these people should never attempt to climb anywhere else. 

Then there are those, with the bolstering of climbing way-hard routes in the gym, then try to take their show on the road. They don't realize that a whole new set of objective hazards awaits them. In a gym they might be able to lead a 5.11 clip-up, but on real rock they start coughing up big hairballs because the bolts (clips) are 30' apart on a 5.8 (risking potentially a 60'+ fall), or because they now have to set their own protection on a climb that has no bolts at all. If they fall they might get scraped up because not every rock is overhanging like at the gym. They might think that because they've done difficult things in the gym that they probably can do things at the same level on rock, or at least they can hang out on climbs rated less than their maximum ability. They've then lulled (suckered) themselves into a false sense of security, for which the toll exacted might be high. The gym-room might be comfy, safe and warm, but real rocks can be excruciatingly hot (or cold), loose and dangerous. You are not guaranteed a good time. If you get off route, you may encounter difficulties more intense than ever imagined, and if you screw up ...you might get hurt or killed. Welcome to the real world of rock climbing. It can be a cold, cruel world. 

Maybe the rad weenies (sport climbers) could learn a trick or two from the trads (more traditionally trained climbers). Learn to evaluate the route ahead, or the emotional control of facing long runouts. Maybe learn when to bail out rather than die trying something of unknown difficulty, or at least how to do self-evacuation or self-extrication from bad situations so that others won't have to come save your sorry butts, which, incidentally, no one is obligated to do. Learn to carry at least adequate clothing (never mind "the ten essentials") so you're not subject to hypothermia on a long route. Understand that some of the way-uncool equipment, like helmets and chest harnesses, might mean the difference between living to climb another day and quadriplegia. Learn that this is an activity of self-reliance. Only vicariously can others appreciate your feats, and no one else is responsible for your safety (or to blame for your injury). You are truly on your own, which I think is one of the more enamoring aspects of the sport. If you're going to exercise your right to stupidity, please don't do it in a sport that I love, as it's getting increasingly difficult to enjoy this sport in our mega-litigious society. If you want to express your suicidal tendencies, then jump from a rock (better yet, a bridge) without climbing gear, or use the rope at home to hang yourself, but please don't kill yourself at a climbing area under the pretense of being a rock-climber; it reflects badly on the rest of us.

Climbing accidents are on the rise, as evidenced by two major injury/fatality falls from Tahquitz in the last two weeks (each of which occurred, apparently, after completion of the ascent), and in Joshua Tree in the last couple of years. Not all of these can be attributed to under-trained gym climbers, but some are. If, on the other hand, you want to be better trained to climb self sufficiently on rocks, then, by all means, go get the training. There are numerous climbing guided classes and services available in a wide price range. Outdoor supply stores, climbing schools and clubs each have their own programs and systems that might open your eyes to techniques and experiences that you never dreamed to be possible.

The Sierra Club used to have a Rock Climbing Section (RCS) that was one of the oldest sections in the club. They trainee beginners in an annual class that covered things now considered esoteric and eclectic, but always with the focus that you could deal with anything, and with minimal equipment if need be. Alas, the RCS has folded because of liability concerns, but there are other groups available, and some are (to me) well worth the money. A club that I'm active in is the Southern California Mountaineers' Association (SCMA). This group was spawned from the wreckage of the RCS, and incorporated as a non-profit climbing club.

For my $35 annual membership fee, I have access to climbing trips (and camp sites) approximately 40 weekends a year. There is a Safety Test, covering much more that any top-rope lead climb test in a gym, before experienced climbers can participate with the club. They also still run an annual beginning-level climbing class, and workshops addressing a wide variety of climbing related activities, including; crack-climbing, sport-climbing, wall-climbing, First Aid and rescue techniques for climbers, most of which is done by volunteers. Nothing guarantees you a climbing partner or a geed time but it does put you in contact with 200+ potential climbing partners. It is not a guide service, but enables you to seek your own level of participation, skill, and education. There are people willing to share the information of the trads, things that you might just use someday to save yourself or others. 

Of the five epic rescue/evacuations I've participated in over the last five years, only one was for a member of my own party. Notwithstanding the blood and gore sometimes involved, I'm glad to have had the traditional training provided by other members and activities in this club. I just wonder why many climbers aren't willing to learn more (or sometimes even enough) to help themselves or others around them. Information concerning membership in the SCMA can be gotten here.

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